Chettinadu Houses: Reminiscence of the Prosperous Nattukottai Chettiyars

 

When I think of vernacular architecture of my state Tamil Nadu, the first thing that comes to my mind are the magnificent Chettinad houses . They immediately caught my eye when I visited Karaikudi , which is well known for housing a large number of these traditional houses. The layout of these old homes hold nostalgia for many people including my own mother with the large open courtyards, red oxide floors and tiled terraces.

  

Chettinad is actually a region of Tamil Nadu almost 90km from Madurai and 150 km from Tanjore. It consists of a cluster of some 80 plus villages. And its main town, which can be considered as its “capital” is Karaikudi. The “Nattukottai Chettiyars” occupied these villages. Nattukottai Chettiars (Nagarathar) belonged to a high-ranking banking and businessmen community. They traded overseas following the expansion of the British Empire and amassed wealth which was poured into the houses they built, some luxurious enough to be called palaces . An amalgamation of traditional Indian architecture and a touch of European influence resulted in Chettinad house interiors.  Built between the 1880s and the 1920s, the houses made ample use of Burma teak and Ceylon satinwood,due the large number of the community members working in Singapore,Malaysia and Burma,along with imported materials such as Italian marble, Dutch ceramic tiles, cast iron, stained glass and Bohemian chandeliers too.

 A typical Chettiar house would be raised six feet high from the road level with steep flights of steps leading in. Every house built following Chettinad architecture had an imposing entrance with elaborately carved wooden doors and panels. On either side of the entrance would stand two huge raised platforms . Built to ensure ventilation, these exotic homes use a variety of materials that guarantee durability. The elaborate architecture promotes natural sunlight and ventilation, great for the health of its inhabitants. The decor infuses culture and plenty of colour with brassware and Tanjore paintings. Therefore, these homes are known for their single-storey palatial mansions with spacious courtyards, Athangudi tiles, rooms embellished with marble and teak wood and traditional artefacts.

One courtyard (onnam kettu) would lead into another rectangular hall (randam kettu) for women. The Chettinad houses were usually tile-roofed with a small two-storeyed tower at both ends of the front elevation. They later expanded vertically into two-storeyed structures, and horizontally through the addition of numerous halls and courtyards that could accommodate guests at marriages and other ceremonies.

 These mansions are characterised by their rectangular plots accompanied by a simple floor plan with wide spaces, well-ventilated courtyards or thinnais and spacious rooms. These open-air courtyards illuminate the home interiors with ample sunlight. During the day, these central spaces can heat up rapidly. Therefore, red oxide was a popular flooring option to keep the floors cool. Finely ground mixture of powdered shell, lime and gallnut called chunnamwas used to plaster the wall. These two design elements last a lifetime and reflect heat.

Moreover, the double-roof system made of baked clay tiles has an extension. They act as sunlight breakers. Baluster railings added so that the lightest breeze can be caught. These courtyards make the most of the sun and are used to dry a variety of condiments. Furthermore, it brings people together in the evenings to discuss the day’s events and building camaraderie.

One of the most understated elements of Chettinad architecture is its base. The materials used here are unlike any other. Locally manufactured or sourced from all around the world, all materials ensure superior quality and durability. The foundation consists of a combination of mud, stone and mortar. The walls are made of baked bricks, bonded by fibre roots and coated with egg shells and egg whites. This gives it a silky smooth finish that’s washable.

In addition, elements of a Chettinad house are characterised by beautifully carved Burmese teak, marble or granite pillars. A fine display of their status, these pillars use used in the main courtyard.The flooring steals the spotlight in this design. When they weren’t using red oxide, local artisans stepped in to add a dramatic flair with the renowned Athangudi tiles. These are handmade and locally manufactured by skilled artisans. They come in a wide variety of patterns and colours, the most popular design being the chessboard pattern. The most traditional designs are in yellow or red with typical floral and diamond borders. That dash of luxury comes from the materials sourced from all over the world, such as Burma teak, Italian marble, Belgian glass and so on. 

These houses are a must visit anyone who loves the traditional architecture.The houses were also a main reason for my interest in architecture, the desire to bring the classic courtyards and craftsmanship into modern houses.